A culinary bolthole on Praia de Rocha Beach in the Algarve that should be on your radar
If you follow my blog, you will know I have a certain fondness for Relais & Chateaux hotels. The philosophy behind this group of small independent hotels, which in many cases are family-owned means their member hotels usually tick the right boxes for me. Notably: size (small), service (highest standards and friendliness), food (seasonal/regional gourmet experiences), and strong commitment to sustainability.
As for my recent stay at Bela Vista Hotel, it was a tick on all above. This beautiful little gem nestled on the rugged cliffs of Praia de Rocha beach in Portimao has its very own personality and style, a staff that will spoil you in any possible way, and the food at both the Michelin-starred restaurant and the small all-day bistro is a true revelation.
Not exaggerating.
For me, it was the perfect example of a charming luxury culinary boutique hotel with Mediterranean vibe. From the moment of arriving, Bela Vista has exceeded any of my high expectations. Though to be honest, the location could be considered a bit of a downside. But more on that point below.
How to reach Bela Vista Hotel & Spa
Bela Vista Hotel & Spa is located in the Praia de Rocha neighbourhood in Portimao, approximately 75 kilometres (60 minutes) from Faro airport.
To reach the hotel by car, once at Praia de Rocha, you need to pass through one of two entrance gates into the pedestrian area. Which is easy enough as the bollard stopping regular traffic will automatically lower as soon as a car approaches. From there, you need to follow signs to Bela Vista Hotel, which is easy to find, though especially during peak season and on weekends from around May through September the pedestrian walkway will be packed with people.
If you do not want to drive yourself, another possibility is booking an UBER from Faro airport or arrange a private transfer through the hotel.
The Location: Where is Bela Vista Hotel & Spa
Towering high on the rugged cliffs at Praia de Rocha beach, you are treated to stupendous views over the sea.
Nestled within a small, park-like area guaranteeing guests a good deal of privacy, the hotel is nevertheless located on the main street of Praia de Rocha pedestrian area. It is one of these ‘built-up’ areas with large higher-rising hotels and apartment buildings buuilt from around the early 1970s onwards. The pedestrian main street is lined with bars/nightclubs, restaurants, and shops belonging to well-known multinational mainstream brands.
Just below the hotel lies Praia de Rocha beach, the largest beach on the Algarve. And one of the most frequented by tourists. As soon as the weather gets warmer, and therefore more visitors arriving, entertainment programmes on the beach will skyrocket. Already during my visit at the end of March, music was playing on the weekend from late morning into the early night. This will move to 7-days a week show once the number of visitors is rising from around May to the end of September.
There is nothing to change the location nor the tourist entertainment program at the beach and pedestrian main street. If this is a make or break for staying at Hotel Bela Vista is a personal decision. If you are not in for laud music for most of the day (and night), the best way around is to visit during off-season or the early/late months of shoulder season.
What is the best time to visit Bela Vista Hotel & Spa
OK, so here I am continuing what I just said. The best time for a stay at Bela Vista Hotel is either slightly off-season or during the early/late months of shoulder season. Particularly for the reasons mentioned above.
On the other hand, if you are unbothered by larger noisy crowds and music on the beach, any other time will be just as good for a visit.
What it’s like staying at Bela Vista Hotel & Spa
Set in a striking villa build in the early 20th century for a local businessman who lived here with his family until 1924, Bela Vista was allegedly the first hotel to open in the Algarve. The name which translates into ‘beautiful view’ was chosen because of the unrivalled panoramic views over the surroundings.
To this day, the hotel retains much of the opulence of the time. Upon entering the historic mansion, you can’t but marvel about the stunning staircase adorned by blue-and-white azulejos, the beautifully decorated piano, hand-painted tiles, mosaic tiles, and the painted wooden ceiling in the bar/bistro.
Meanwhile, not missing is a touch of contemporary design either. Vista restaurant was just recently redesigned to reflect the signature dishes chef João Oliveira is featuring here. Blue and white with beautiful red highlights, it’s a statement of unpretentious stylish beachside charm.
However, it was the staff what really won me over at first instance. On arrival, once ringing the bell at the large wrought iron gate, a friendly staff member was immediately on hand to unload our baggage and park the car.
For check in, we were invited into the small bar/bistro area where we got offered a drink while going through formalities and getting an introduction to the premisses of the hotel.
This was only topped by the outstanding service at the bar/bistro and restaurant which was to the point and fit for both styles; relaxed and friendly at the bistro, highly attentive to any detail yet without constantly interfering at Vista restaurant.
Rooms are located either in the main mansion, the Blue House, or the modern Garden House. Those in the villa, including most of the suites, still feature original wall tiles, and most will offer sea views. Meanwhile, except one in the Garden House, the remaining suites are all in the Blue House, which as the name suggests, is designed in hues of blue matching the colours of the sea.
Never to turn down the perks of a more spacious room, which usually means a junior suite or suite, this time I opted for a room in the Garden House, which are the only ones with a balcony/terrace guaranteed. Though the cozy rooms here are not overly spacious, I immediately fell in love with the beautiful beachside design. Kept in blue and white with little thoughtful touches of decoration along with the sea spectacular sea view, they are pure beach life feeling.
An additional plus comes from the spacious storage room for your baggage and a also spacious bathroom (not always the case with smaller size hotel rooms).
Weather permitting (I did not have too much look with it, unfortunately) most time will be anyway spent at the stunning pool area.
The huge white cabanas are the highlight while the sunbeds with their colourful strips shaded by towering palm trees add a splendid retro-chic sublime touch.
A great alternative to the pool, especially on the rare days without sunshine, is the 400 sqm Spa by Occitane. You can get personal advise on the most appropriate health and wellbeing treatments, do yoga and/or pilates and get a personal trainer on request.
What it’s like dining at Bela Vista Hotel & Spa
I am still in love with the food at Bela Vista. The hotel has actually two options for dining, and both were excellent. The small all-day bistro, which is open daily and the Michelin-star VISTA restaurant which is open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday.
While you can’t miss the exceptional menu by chef João Oliveira at VISTA, if you stay more than one night, don’t bother to look elsewhere for food than the small bistro. The seabass in salt crust was one of the best I ever had.
Before you head to VISTA restaurant, settle down in one of the beautiful cosy little lounges for a pre-dinner cocktail from the hotel’s excellent bar, or weather permitting head to the spectacular rooftop bar.
Dinner at VISTA begins with a warm welcome from the restaurant manager, followed by a tour down to the kitchen and small wine cellar. And if I say down, that’s what I mean. The kitchen is in the basement and my utmost admiration goes to the staff navigating the steep spiral staircase up and down while carrying plates with food.
There are two menu options, though the star at Vista Restaurant is the 12-course seafood menu. From the mackerel to the shrimps, anchovies and turbot, each course was a surprising creative take on the traditional Portuguese cuisine.
The Earth Menu offers a vegetarian alternative and while my choice obviously was the seafood menu, the Algarve Carrot Textures from the Earth menu substituting the mussels (due to my allergy) was delicious.
Breakfast is included in room rates, and I found it was excellent. There was a selection of cured meat and cheese along with homemade yoghurt and daily changing pastries served a at the table, along with an egg menu and a small buffet with additional options of fresh fruit, cuts, and a selection of breads.
Weather permitting, both dinner at Vista and breakfast will be served on the outside terrace overlooking the beach.
Final thoughts
Bela Vista Hotel for me is the perfect example of a luxury beachside hideaway for the demanding culinary traveller.
This place might not be far from the crowds, with Praia de Rocha main pedestrian walkway and the undescriptive high-rise hotel and apartment buildings next to the hotel, and the party crowd down at the beach. But choosing the right time to visit (not during high season), this is just a side note. You leave all this behind when passing through the wrought iron gate into Bela Vista’s beautifully curated compound.
Certainly, the impeccable service, lovely rooms and above all the outstanding dining options are enough reason to return.
And next time, hopefully the weather will collaborate too!
Carrots and Tigers 