Highlights of Barrio de Santa Cruz, the oldest quarter of Sevilla
Earlier this spring, I’ve been lucky enough to revisit Sevilla. It was my third time travelling to the beautiful capital of Andalucía, yet this place is so full of wonderful sights, lively streets, and off course the fantastic food, it’s safe to say I could come back ten more times (or more) without ever growing tired of this place.
Sevilla is one of the most popular destinations in the south of Europe not least because it offers so much to see and do in an area compact enough to be totally walkable. The city is home to some of the most astonishing historic monuments, it is the birthplace of flamenco, and its local tapas scene is world famous.
The city is worth spending a couple of days to see and experience it all. But if your time is limited or you wonder where to start then it’s Barrio de Santa Cruz you need exploring.
Barrio de Santa Cruz, the oldest part of Sevilla is undoubtedly the city’s beating historic heart.
The area around two of Sevilla’s main attractions, the amazing Real Alcázar and the Cathedral of Sevilla with its famous bell tower, the Giralda is located at the southern-most corner of the Casco Antigüo, Sevilla’s old town. It is undoubtedly the most touristy area of the city, but the quarter is still a lively residential neighbourhood too which is adding a lot to its unique charm.
The origins of Barrio de Santa Cruz go back to Roman times. Indeed, the historic city built during the 1st century marks the original boundaries of the quarter.
That said, the historic importance of Barrio de Santa Cruz is largely linked to being the former Jewish quarter of Sevilla following the conquest of the city by King Ferdinand III of Castille from the formerly ruling Almohads in 1248.
By 1492, however, the Jewish population was driven out of the city and later the four historic local synagogues were either demolished or converted to churches. More changes to the quarter occurred in the centuries that followed while the most recent and significant remodelling of Barrio de Santa Cruz took place in occasion of the 1929 world exposition taking place in Sevilla.
Even today this beautiful labyrinth of narrow winding streets, whitewashed houses, and flowery courtyards and balconies make you feel like being transported right back to medieval times.
What is the best time of day visiting Barrio de Santa Cruz in Sevilla
Walking around Barrio de Santa Cruz is a pleasure at any time of the day. Unless you visit during the scorching summer months when temperatures may well hit over 40°C around midday. Plus, the area will fill up with tourists from late morning when most tour groups will arrive.
The best time to explore the quarter therefore is either first thing in the morning or late afternoon when most of the tourist groups have left.
Another great time to walk around Barrio de Santa Cruz is later in the evening. The quarter looks particularly charming around sunset, although from around 10pm will again start to fill up with people hitting the restaurants around the major squares.
What to look out for at Barrio de Santa Cruz
The Santa Cruz quarter is small enough to be crossed by foot quickly. Yet it is a place where you can spend endless hours strolling along the small, winding cobble-stoned streets, admiring the whitewashed houses adorned with beautiful small balconies and masses of flowers.
Large parts of the quarter are pedestrianized, so you do not need to worry about traffic either.
Real Alcázar and Cathedral of Sevilla
Barrio de Santa Cruz is home to two of Sevilla’s most famous historic monuments, the amazing Real Alcázar de Sevilla and the Cathedral of Sevilla with its famous bell tower, the Giralda.
Going back to the 8th century when a fortress was built by the first Moorish rulers of the area, Real Alcázer de Sevilla which later on was enlarged and remodelled various times, today remains one of the few historic palaces across Europe still in use and is one of the most popular to be visited.
Check out my in-depth guide to visiting Real Alcázar de Sevilla for more information.
Built on the former site of the first Mosque of Sevilla, the stunning Cathedral with its bell tower, the Giralda is officially named Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede. It is the third largest church in the world, with only after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London being bigger.
The Cathedral, which was built between 1403 and 1507, still features two of the original elements of the Mosque later destroyed and replaced with the new building: the beautiful orange court (Patio de los Naranjos) and the stunning Giralda tower.
The Cathedral is also said to be home to the tomb of Christopher Columbus; although claims that his remains in reality are not buried here continue to surface every now and then. What you can be sure of is to find many beautiful paintings by Murillo, Goya, Pedro de Campaña, and Luis de Vargas inside the Cathedral.
The 104 metres high Giralda tower, originally built as the minaret of the later destroyed mosque, from the top offers a fantastic view over the old quarter.
Casa de Pilatos
Located at the northern end of Barrio de Santa Cruz, the farthest away from the Cathedral is another beautiful historic palace. This time much much smaller than Real Alcázar, the historic home of Don Pedro Enriquez and later his son Fadrique Enriques de Ribera is still partly inhabited by he 18th Duchess of Medinacelli and her family. Named after the house of Pontius Pilate, it is one of the best-preserved houses from the 16th century.
Casa de Pilatos spots the typical Mudéjar style of historic Sevilla yet being build after the Moorish area it also includes elements of Italian Renaissance.
The stunning centrepiece of the place is the large patio with a well and fountain surrounded by arches spotting 24 busts of Roman emperors and Greek gods while the walls along the corridor are adorned with the stunning colourful azulejos of Sevilla.
There is also a beautiful small garden in Italian style.
Archivo General de Indias
The stunning 16th century building located right next to the Cathedral of Sevilla is home to more than 10 kilometres of bookshelves containing precious documents of the city’s (and Spain’s) colonial past concerning ‘Las Indias’.
The documents themselves date from the 16th to the 19th century and include written documents, photos, drawings, and diaries. Many can now also be consulted online, but the main reason to visit the archive really is the whole feeling of the place.
Plaza de Cabildo
When strolling around the lively streets of Barrio de Santa Cruz you would never expect to find one of the quietest – and cutest – spots of the city just steps away from the Cathedral. Hidden away behind a most undescriptive arcade you will find a small square dominated by the loveliest semi-circular colonnade with beautifully painted arches.
Though this place is no longer a secret, you won’t find too many people lingering around. Except for Sunday mornings when a small collector’s market is taking place
Exploring the small streets of Barrio de Santa Cruz
The stunning historic monuments located within the boundaries of Barrio de Santa Cruz are a must when exploring the area. Though the intrinsic charm of the quarter without doubt lies in the many narrow winding streets lined by historic whitewashed houses with their balconies adorned with beautiful flower arrangements along with the little squares shaded by orange trees.
Plaza Doña Elvira is one of the main squares of Barrio de Santa Cruz. Shaded by a large number of orange trees, it is the perfect spot for a little rest on one of the benches. Likewise, if you are looking for a quick lunch without great demands, you will find some nice tapas on the menus.
More restaurants and tapas bars are found in many of the other small squares distributed throughout the quarter.
Most of the historic city wall has gone today but a small part still remains located at Callejon del Agua. The wall is an extension of the garden walls of Real Alcázar while the street takes it name from a wall that used to run along the top of the wall.
At the end of Callejon del Agua, you will find Plaza Alfaro. And though we all know the legendary balcony from Romeo and Juliet to be located in Verona in Italy, here Sevilla’s Plaza Alfaro, you will find a small balcony likewise said to have inspired the famous Shakespeare novel.
Throughout the quarter there are off course a lot of small fairly touristy shops though but watch out and you will also find few selling nice artisan fare.
Where to stay at Barrio de Santa Cruz
If you are heading to Sevilla, you will undoubtedly want to explore the main attractions within or close to the city’s historic core. Picking a place to stay at Barrio de Santa Cruz, Sevilla’s oldest neighbourhood, not only places you right in the midst of one of the main areas that will be likely on top of your must-see list. You will also be close to most of Sevilla’s other important monuments, places, and attractions.
And when it comes to picking your place to stay at Barrio de Santa Cruz, you are spoiled for choice. From hostels to budget hotels, mid-range hotels and five-star luxury you will find whatever you are looking for.
If you are looking for luxury, check out my suggestions below where to stay at Barrio de Sant Cruz.
EME Cathedral Mercer Hotel
Located right in front of the amazing gothic Cathedral of Sevilla, EME Cathedral occupies a typical 16th century building. Inside, the hotel is all modern and design instead.
Whether you decide to stay at EME Cathedral or not, make a reservation at the rooftop bar. You will not find many similar stunning views over the Cathedral and the Giralda.
Hotel Alfonso XIII
Technically located outside of the boundaries of Barrio de Santa Cruz, Sevilla’s historic leading hotel is nevertheless just a 5 minutes-walk away from the Cathedral. Thus, if you are looking to be spoiled over the top, this fabulous hotel, part of the Luxury Collection is the place to stay.
Read my post Royal Luxury at Hotel Alfonso XIII to learn all you need to know about the hotel.
Petit Palace Santa Cruz
Located in a 16th century mansion, four-star Petit Palace Santa Cruz boasts, impressive arches, high ceilings, a beautiful small courtyard, a marble clad reception area along with spacious rooms.
This place is particularly suited for families with categories including rooms sleeping up to six.
El Rey Moro Hotel Boutique
Located right in the middle of Barrio de Santa Cruz EL Rey Moro Hotel Boutique occupies the site of a former 16th century remodelled mansion. Spacious rooms and a lovely patio and a popular restaurant on site, this four-star hotel is good value for money.
Have you ever been to Barrio de Santa Cruz in Sevilla? I’d be curious to learn about your experience in the comments below.
Carrots and Tigers 