What to expect from a Michelin-starred gourmet hideaway just off the coast on the French Riviera
Beautiful Cote d’Azur is one of my favourite places to visit at any time of the year. Most of you, I think, would agree that it is an exciting place to visit.
As much as I love spending time at the sea, the area just north of the coast home to such gorgeous villages like Saint Paul de Vence, Le Bar-sur-Loup, or Peillon has so much to offer it would be a shame to miss out.
So, if you are planning a trip to the French Riviera, make sure to include a night or two away from the bustling coastline to enjoy the quitter (at least later in the day) areas still closely connected to the sea but already feeling distinctively more like Provence. Here you can explore the charming hilltop villages, go hiking or cycling, or take a trip to the nearby lavender fields.
The area is also dotted by some awesome small hotels and resorts offering wonderful culinary adventures.
Earlier this year, I had the great pleasure to visit one of them.
Located just outside of Grasse, the world capital of perfume, one of the most acclaimed chefs of the Cote d’Azur (if not France), Jaques Chibois has turned a historic bastide into a superb culinary hideaway every foodie and lover of Provence should firmly put on her/his bucket list.
Nestled in the hills overlooking the distant Bay of Cannes and surrounded by large, century old cypress, citrus and olive tree orchards, La Bastide Saint-Antoine feels so much farther away from the bustling city of Cannes than the 15 minutes it actually is.
The beautiful bastide dates back to the 18th century, starting life as a monastery before it was turned into a hunting lodge and later a private rental home welcoming such famous guests like the Kennedy’s and the Rolling Stones.
Today, La Bastide Saint-Antoine is perhaps best known as one of the most acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants on the Cote d’Azur. The short distance to the coastal hotspots easily allows guests to drive over for lunch or dinner without the need to stay overnight. However, when Jaques Chibois took over the gorgeous estate in 1996, his goal was to create a place that would welcome guests to stay over after dinner, or even for another night or two.
Are you looking for a culinary retreat in one of the most charming destinations in the south of France? Or do you want to spend some time in the hillside area away from the coast and are looking for a place to stay for a night or two? Then La Bastide de Saint-Antoine just outside of Grasse, a Relais & Chateau property is a great place to start with.
What to expect checking into La Bastide Saint-Antoine
Checking into a Relais & Chateaux property is typically a safe bet, and La Bastide Saint-Antoine was no exception.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by the typical, almost understated appearance of a classic French bastide.
La Bastide describes a particular building complex mostly found in the southern parts of France. It typically consists of a main building surrounded by several outbuildings or barns which are connected to the main house by arcades and walls. This creates a protected courtyard which in the past used to be (and still is today) the centre of activity.
At La Bastide Saint-Antoine this protected inner area today is a beautiful, secluded garden which extends into the citrus and olive orchards surrounding the property.
With only 16 rooms and suites, the hotel is a true oasis of tranquil country living. Though it can get busy during lunchtime on Sundays when the restaurant offers a special – and quite reasonably priced – Sunday lunch menu that usually draws many guests from the nearby coast.
But let’s talk about the rooms first.
If you are looking for modern comfort, the renovated barn next to the main house offers five contemporary furnished elegant rooms. If you are anything like me, your preference will be a room in the main mansion though.
Our suite on the top floor was beautifully styled with antique white painted wood furnishings and terracotta flooring, breathing a typical Provencial feeling. The spacious bathroom spotted chopper and white tiles. Needless to say, it was not missing such modern amenities like a flat-screen TV, I-Pod docking station and off course air conditioning.
The scenic Provencal feeling of the room was only topped by the view from the small terrace, extending all the way down to the coast.
The stunning garden area is home to a huge number of citrus trees bearing around 60 different varieties of citrus fruits which invariably will find their way into the kitchen of La Bastide. As does the olive oil produced in a nearby mill from the over 1,200 olives trees growing the ‘caillette’ variety on the property. Indeed, the slightly sweet and fruity olive oil it is a firm part of every meal at the restaurant.
There are plenty of beautiful small corners where you can sit down and relax in the shades of the wonderful trees.
Or you can settle down at the pool area overlooking the surrounding hills if you prefer.
What is it like to dine at La Bastide Saint-Antoine
Acclaimed chef Jaques Chibois is a well-known figure in France and his impressive CV includes stints with such iconic French chefs like Jean Delaveyne, Roger Vergé, Louis Outhier and Michel Guérard. He received his first two Michelin stars as chef at Le Royal Gray at Hotel Gray d’Albion in Cannes, which was also cited as the best restaurant by Gault et Millau. At La Bastide Saint-Antoine, which he opened in 1996, Jaques Chibois obtained two Michelin stars in 1997 and four Gault & Millau Guide “toques” in 2010. The restaurant is also part of the Grandes Tables du Monde, a collection of prestigious restaurants that currently counts 178 restaurants in 23 countries among its members.
With all those accolades, what can you expect dining at La Bastide Saint-Antoine?
Jaques Chibois’s style is best described as classic French cuisine with a twist. The dishes served at La Bastide Saint-Antoine are characterized by flavours and fragrances hailing from the land surrounding the property. Fresh ingredients, in particular fish and seafood from the nearby cost, local vegetables, and the restaurants own olive oil are the stars on the plate.
During the warmer part of the year, food is served on the rustic terrace nestled in the secluded garden surrounded by lime and chestnut trees, offering views over the stunning surroundings as far as the coastline.
When the temperature is too cool, the restaurant will move to the cozy inside space styled in the classic natural style of the Provence.
La Bastide Saint-Antoine offers a five-course menu for lunch from Monday to Sunday and a special four-course Sunday menu which are both quite reasonably priced.
For dinner, you can usually choose from four set menu options with one of them an eight-course surprise menu, and one vegetarian. Alternatively, you can choose from the a-la-carte menu.
The restaurant also offers a large wine selection, with most bottles from France along with a small international selection.
Prices for dinner are on the higher side, but still well within the range you would expect for Michelin-starred French haut cuisine.
I must confess though, there had been one disappointment when it came to food during my stay. The hotel offers a breakfast buffet which on warmer days you can enjoy on the beautiful small terrace with views over the garden area and surrounding hills as far as the distant sea.
There is a small selection of cured meats, cheeses, fresh fruit and juices, and a small breadbasket including freshly baked croissants is brought to the table. Which is all very well. But I would have expected a hotel with a two-star restaurant would offer a choice of freshly made egg dishes upon order. Instead, I had a pass on convenience-style scrambled eggs and pre-fried eggs put under a warming lamp on the buffet.
It might be complaining on a high level, but still …
Is La Bastide Saint-Antoine worth the price tag?
The hotel certainly is. Room rates are well within the range you could expect for a 5-star luxury hotel in the south of France.
The location is perfect if you want to explore nearby Grasse, the world capital of perfume or some of the other hillside villages just north of the coast like Saint Paul de Vence or go hiking or biking in the beautiful nature. Resting in the shades of century old citrus and olive trees in the garden or at the pool, will be the perfect ending of a busy day out exploring.
The restaurant is pricy but no more than other Michelin-starred destinations along the cost or in other parts of France. If you stay overnight at La Bastide de Saint-Antoine, I’d certainly recommend booking a table to get the full culinary experience.
Alternatively, you can simply plan a lazy day at the pool and have lunch which will cost you much less but still offer you a truly exciting culinary experience.
Would I go again?
I might. The beautiful hotel is certainly worth another visit, and I would certainly not complain about an evening on the terrace while enjoying a few courses of delicious Provence food and wines. Likewise, with the centre of Grasse just over two kilometres away, there are plenty of options where to eat if one does not want to spend the price tag for the hotel restaurant.
Carrots and Tigers 