What it’s like staying at the Algarve’s stunning ‘Pink Palace’
One of the highlights of my recent trip to the Algarve, in the south of Portugal, was staying at Pousada Palacio de Estoi.
When checking out things to do at the Algarve, the historic Palacio de Estoi is usually listed as one of the must-see places in nearly all travel guides on the area.
And they are spot on. This historic rococo palace located only a short drive from Faro is hand’s down one of the most exciting locations to visit in the Algarve. If you stay in the area, a visit to the lower part of the garden area freely accessible through the entrance near the villages’ small church. From here, you have a gorgeous view taking in the palace as well – and you can always drop into the hotel for a coffee or afternoon tea to explore the interior and upper garden area.
In case you are still planning your trip, and have not yet decided where to stay, I recommend making this beautiful hotel you base for at least one or two nights. While it’s not close to the beach or the restaurants of Faro, the hotel is one of the most stunning in the area. As for the location away from the crowds, personally I certainly count this on the plus side. In addition, a 15 minutes’ drive to Faro is not that far away.
The history of Palacio de Estoi
Officially named Palacio do Visconde de Estoi, this beautiful property is often referred to a Palacio Estoi, or quite often simply ‘Pink Palace’. Though the colour of the façade is changing according to daylight and comes across more like a dark salmon through to carmine. But that’s just a side note and does not take away any of the beauty and excitement this place exhales.
Construction of the historic rococo palace started in the 1840s whilst it took until 1909 to finally complete. It was eventually abandoned and in poor condition when the Municipality of Faro bought the property sometime in the late 1980s. After careful renovation, the palace was converted into a Pousada in 2008.
What is a Pousada?
In Portuguese, the word pousada means ‘inn’ or ‘hostel’. However, since 1941, Pousada is also a registered trademark for a particular style of hotels. Initially, this included usually small hotels in typical Portuguese-style historic buildings. In the 1950, an additional category was added called ‘Historical Pousadas’ and these refer to hotels integrated in historic monuments such as castles and monasteries.
The Pousadas de Portugal, as the brand is officially called, was initially under the management of the Portuguese State but later was privatized and now belongs to the renown Pestana Hotels and Resorts group. The group currently has 37 Pousadas across Portugal and Madeira under their management.
Where is Pousada Palacio de Estoi located
Nestled in the rolling hills typical for the Algarve region away from the coast, Pousada Palacio de Estoi is located in the small village of Estoi, around 12 kilometres from Faro.
The N2 motorway passes Estoi not far away although to reach the village you need to navigate some small rural roads. Therefore, if you drive make sure your rental car comes equipped with a GPS.
Reaching Estoi by public transport is tricky as the only connection is a bus from Faro that runs only few times per day (and even less on weekends). It takes around 25 minutes to arrive. There is no train station in the village.
A taxi or Uber from Faro will cost around 20 euros for the 15-20 minutes’ drive. If you opt for this alternative for a day visit, make sure to arrange your return to Faro in advance. You won’t find a taxi in the small village and calling one on the spot will take time as it needs to arrive from Faro.
What’s like staying at Pousada Palacio de Estoi
This beautiful hotel, part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection, is full of charm and character. From the moment one steps into the small reception area, located in the palaces’ historic chapel, it feels like you are getting sucked into a different era.
The historic palace was carefully restored and today the whole property is a stunning mix of old and new.
Stroll through the public spaces and you are surrounded by frescoed ceilings, Baroque-style sofas and chairs, chandeliers, statues, wood panels, beautiful antique plasterwork, and paintings.
Meanwhile, a modern wing was added to house the hotel’s modern rooms and suites along with the spa area and the indoor and outdoor pools. Enter this part of the hotel and it’s all reduced yet stylish contemporary design.
Rooms are spacious and filled with light thanks to the large sliding glass doors and the suits are spotting a separate large sitting area. It also has amble storage space, not always typical for a hotel.
All rooms have their own private patio or balcony, with the upper-level rooms providing direct access to a modern-style garden area and the outdoor pool.
The spa area boasts a health club, Turkish bath, hot tub, sauna, and gym.
The beautiful Versailles-style garden in front of the historic palace is decorated with statues and fountains along with beautiful bushes, plants and the for the Algarve so typical orange trees.
The garden area then extends towards two lover levels connected by grand staircases adorned with stunning blue azulejos.
The lower levels of the garden are open to the public and accessible only through the public gate from the lower part of the village close to the small church. Even for hotel guests, this is the only way to access the lower gardens these days. Though there is a beautiful wrought iron gate theoretically granting access to the lower levels, it is closed to prevent day visitors entering the hotel garden and thus allow more privacy to hotel guests and especially those enjoying leisure time at the outdoor pool (which is directly adjacent to the sculpture garden).
That said, as mentioned before, the hotel is also open to day guests if you want to drop in for coffee or some drinks, or dining at the hotel’s O Visconde restaurant, open for lunch and dinner.
What’s like dining at O Visconde restaurant
If food is a major part of your travels, the Algarve is your happy place.
Not only does the area boast a good number of Michelin-starred restaurants. The local cuisine is firmly focused on fish and seafood, along with the excellent pork and lamb from the nearby Alentejo region.
O Visconde restaurant is no exception, with the seasonally changing menu firmly focusing on regional produce.
Food is served in a relaxed modern atmosphere inside or on the terrace overlooking the garden and surrounding area.
My favourites?
Both the fried shrimp with brandy and spicy mackerel bruschetta with avocado were sublime starters and I could not say which one was better.
For the mains, there were a few fish options that sounded all very intriguing. However, with temperatures regrettably on the cool side during my visit, the more winterly lamb shank with red wine sauce and pumpkin puree turned out to be the perfect choice.
The wine menu offers a selection of local and international wines. Make a point choosing one from the Algarve (yes, the Algarve makes wine). It will be the perfect match for the local food.
Whether it’s before or after your meal (or perhaps on both occasions), make sure to stop by the small bar. The cocktails there are fantastic. Or if the weather is warm enough, order your dinks on the terrace.
Final thoughts
If like me you love staying at historic properties or want to stay away from the busier areas directly on the coast, and love to combine your stay with an excellent culinary offer, Pousada Palacio de Estoi is the perfect hotel for one or two nights.
I truly enjoyed my recent stay at Pousada de Estoi for all the reasons mentioned above. It’s a place where you can forget about the rest of the world for a while, relaxing on the large wooden patio at the pool, marvelling at the beautiful façade, and admiring the beautifully curated garden with its statues and fountains, maybe with a glass of Algarve wine or a refreshing cocktail in hand.
The proximity to Faro airport makes it a great spot to either start or end your trip to the Algarve, especially if your flight arrives in the later afternoon or departs early in the morning.
Carrots and Tigers 